Hello From Nova Scotia - Enjoying Halifax' Harbourwalk and Pier 21-Canada's Immigration Museum

My Halifax City Tour, expertly narrated by Allenphotographs tell the diverse stories of immigrants,
Mackenzie, a passionate Haligonian in a kilt, hadmostly from Western Europe and the Mediterranean
provided me with a great overview of this city, and myarea. Many images also relate to the almost half a
visit to the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic had addedmillion Canadian troops that departed from Pier 21 in
to my knowledge of Halifax, particularly of itsHalifax to join the war effort in Europe during the
connection to the Titanic and the 1917 Explosion. StillSecond World War.
mulling over the historic significance of this city, theThe Research Centre also provides public reference
largest population centre on Canada's East Coast, I satfor all oceanimmigration records from 1925 to 1935 and
down close to the waterfront to finally have lunch andmany Canadians specificallycome to Pier 21 to
strengthen myself after an intense introduction to theresearch their parent's or grandparent's arrivalrecords
city.in Canada. Four computer terminals provide access to
On this sunny, fairly warm day I had a seat on thethe website, to the stories database, the ship database
outdoor patio of Stayner's Wharf, one of theand other electronic resources related to immigration.
restaurants on the Waterfront, located right next to theMicrofilm records contain the responses to 28
Halifax - Dartmouth Ferry Terminal. I was finally able toquestions that a prospective immigrant would have to
catch a rest, relax in the autumn sun and get ready foranswer prior to being allowed to enter Canada. These
my lunch. I ordered the "Captain's Brunch", amicrofilms are some of the most popular records in
pan-seared brunch-size portion of Atlantic salmon withthe Research Centre.
one lightly fried egg, creamy whipped potatoes toppedAlthough I have no personal connection to Pier 21,
with a bit of Hollandaise sauce, served with a slice ofhaving arrived by myself in Toronto without family in
tomato and cucumber. It was a very satisfying lunch,1986, Carrie-Ann Smith, Pier 21's Manager of Research,
looking out onto Halifax' waterfront, with a view of theprovided me with a copy of the entire chapter on
Theodore Too, Halifax' famous TV-show inspiredGerman and Austrian immigration, taken from the
tugboat.Encyclopedia of Canada's People's, edited by Paul R.
I took about half an hour before I got up and made myMagocsi, and published in 1999 by University of Toronto
way southwards on the Harbourwalk, Halifax's 3.8 kmPress. I found out that about 31,000 Austrian
boardwalk that stretches all the way from Casinoimmigrants came through Pier 21 from 1928 to 1971,
Nova Scotia in the north to the Pier 21 National Historiccompared to 1,152,400 immigrants from the United
Site in the south. More than 2.5 million visitors walk theKingdom and 527,000 immigrants from the United
Harbourwalk annually. $31 million were invested in orderStates. In addition to 48,000 War Brides and their
to purchase and rejuvenate properties and to renewchildren, many refugees and displaced persons also
infrastructure. The Harbourwalk is composed of acame to Canada during these years, including about
series of public parks, wharves and plazas all69,700 Jewish immigrants, many of whom were
connected by a boardwalk system that is primarilyvictims of the Holocaust. In addition, Canada also
wooden to reflect the historic marine character ofwelcomed about 3,000 Evacuee Children from the
Halifax's waterfront which is now easily accessible toUnited Kingdom who were evacuated during WWII
the public. People were out in full force, enjoying thedue to the heavy bombing raids and the perceived
pleasant weather. Several street comedians werethreat of invasion. More than 250,000 children were
performing right next to the waterfront, drawing hugesupposed to be evacuated, but one of the ships
crowds of onlookers.transporting children was sunk by enemy ships so the
The Halifax Harbour actually is one of the world's bestprogram was cut short.
natural harbours as it extends almost 20 km inland intoAnother category of immigrant were the Home
the Bedford Basin. Several islands are located in theChildren: more than 100,000 left Great Britain between
harbour. The closest to the harbour entrance isthe late 1860s and the mid 1930s due to the extreme
George's Island which has been designated a Nationalpoverty in their home country. These children would
Historic Site although it is not currently accessible to thetypically be employed either as domestic help or farm
public. This island has long played an important role inlabourers, and the practice was already dwindling
the harbour's defense system.when Pier 21 opened in 1928. Stories representing the
McNabs Island is located farther out in the harbour andalmost half a million WWII veterans who embarked for
is accessible via a ferry from the Eastern Passage ormilitary service in Europe from Pier 21 during the
via a charter boat from Cable Wharf. This island wasSecond World War, can also be found here. The
settled in the past although the homesteads are nowhuman stories of so many different types of people
abandoned. A lighthouse, ruined fortress and batteriesprovide fascinating insights into one of the most
as well as sand beaches can be found on McNabsturbulent times of human history and Canada's role in it.
Island. One more island, Lawlor's Island, is located closePier 21 is certainly one of Canada's most unique
to the mainland. It never had any military installationsmuseums, testimony to the key role that immigration
and today is a protected nature area.has played and continues to play in this country. You
The Halifax harbour also features a deportation cross,enter the museum and arrive in a large exhibition hall,
reminiscent of the famous deportation cross at thethe Kenneth C. Rowe Heritage Hall, a multi-purpose
Grand Pré, the original deportation site of thearea that can also be rented out for private functions
Acadian Expulsion. And being Canada's major seaportwhich holds up to 600 guests. Up the elevators you
on the east coast, it has always had a strategicarrive in the main exhibit area which features a wide
military role and even today features key militaryvariety of exhibits illustrating the immigration experience.
installations.The Rudolph Peter Batty Exhibition Hall allows you to
As I was walking along Harbourwalk, I saw variousretrace the steps of an immigrant who just arrived at
ships passing in and out of the narrow passage, butthe Halifax Harbour, complete with wooden waiting
the most interesting one was a military submarine, withbenches and an immigration officer's desk. The Wall of
all the sailors standing on deck, often waving to theShips features images of many of the ocean liners
fascinated audience on land. I was wondering whenthat used to transport thousands of immigrants to their
the sailors would disappear below deck, but I lost sightnew home country. A replica of a Canadian National
of them as I walked southwards towards the pierRailway car conjures up memories of the train
buildings.journeys that so many immigrants took across
Halifax is a true centre of ocean transport due toCanada to their new homes in different parts of the
being blessed with one of the world's deepest andcountry.
largest natural harbours. The harbour's waters remainSix video booths provide access to video clips
ice-free and experience minimal tides and the portfeaturing the story of immigrants from different places.
generally is the first inbound and the last outbound portAs a Canadian immigrant from Austria, I sat down in
to North America from Europe, the Mediterranean andthe first video booth where an Austrian video
the Suez Canal. It is also a major cruise ship centre: intestimonial was being played and I saw the story of an
2005 108 cruise vessels with over 188,000 visitorsAustrian immigrant , a man who had come to make his
docked in Halifax, causing a major economic infusionlife in Canada in the 1950s. His emotion and
for the city.gratefulness to his new country were clearly visible.
In line with the ocean transportation theme, aThe Andrea and Charles Bronfman In-Transit Theatre
monument to a famous Halifax resident is located justat the far end of the exhibition space features a 24
south of the entrance gate to the Halifax Port area:minute virtual projection presentation that portrays the
Samuel Cunard (1787 to 1865) , a native son of Halifax,emotional stories of those who passed through these
is forever commemorated in a bronze statue thathistoric halls. Stefani pointed out that the volunteer
prominently presides over the Port of Halifax. Cunardguide who was supervising the presentation was a
became a Nova Scotia shipping magnate, whosevery special person: Robert Vandekieft is an 89 year
Cunard Steamship Line would run many of the famousold individual who volunteers at Pier 21 three days a
transatlantic ocean liners in the 1800s. His primaryweek. But not only does Robert give his personal time
competitor was the White Star Line, whose ill-fatedto this unique museum, he actually came through the
ocean liner Titanic sank 750 km off the coast of Novadoors of Pier 21 as an immigrant himself in 1954 to
Scotia in 1912. After this disaster, Cunard dominatedstart his new life in Canada.
the transatlantic passenger shipping and his companyRobert originally is from Haarlem, a town in northern
became one of the most important companies in theHolland and decided to make his new life in Canada.
world. The Cunard line's fortune began to decline in theThree months after his arrival in 1954 his wife and
1950s when air travel became popular, but over thechildren followed. Robert fondly recalls a story of his
last few years has experienced a major revival withfamily's arrival: he had bought a teddy bear for his
the world renowned Queen Mary 2, the first oceanolder son and upon arrival tossed it up to the top level
liner to be built in 30 years, and the largest passengerof the ship where the boy successfully caught it. He
liner ever built. In 1998 Cunard was taken over byhad also bought some plastercene for his younger son
Carnival Corporation, but the Cunard name can still beas a present which he tossed up towards his younger
seen on the side of the Queen Mary 2.child.
I was in luck, because as I strolled closer to the pierUnfortunately his throw was off and the plastercene
buildings in the Halifax Port area, I saw that the Queenfell into the water, but thanks to the kindness of the
Mary 2 was indeed in town. An impressive ship, itlongshoremen of the Halifax Port, they fished it out of
appears to be about 8 to 10 stories tall and towersthe water and brought it back to Robert so he would
over the port buildings. Right here, with the Queenbe able to give his younger son a proper welcome gift.
Mary 2 as a backdrop, I had reached my nextRobert had originally travelled to Winnipeg where he
destination: Pier 21, Canada's immigration museum.was hired as a fur dyer, his original occupation. But he
Upon arrival I connected with Stefani Angelopoulos,did not like his job there very much, so after a few
Communications Manager for the museum who wasweeks he travelled back to Nova Scotia where he
so kind to give me a personalized tour through thiswas offered a job on a farm. After his family's arrival
unique facility. Pier 21 is the Canadian equivalent to EllisRobert found out that his wife was not at all keen on
Island: more than a million immigrants came through itsfarming so he looked for another job. He started
doors between 1928 and 1971. Until its opening in theworking for Canada Packers in the warehouse and
late 1990s, the building sat empty as a warehouse andwould regularly lift sides of beef with a weight of up to
was finally turned into a museum in 1999 and62 pounds.
designated as a National Historic Site. It was also theAfter 8 months he applied for a job as a stagehand
embarkation point for about 500,000 soldiers whowith the CBC (Canadian Broadcasting Corporation),
were transported from here to fight in the Secondthen he moved up in the ranks to crew header and
World War. Halifax' strategic importance in linkinglater to become the supervisor of the design
Canada with Europe became evident once again.department. As his career progressed, Robert
Stefani informed me that between 1942 and 1948,Vandekieft became a producer and director at the
more than 48,000 War Brides came to Canada fromCBC and his career ended with senior roles in
Britain and other countries in Europe and they broughteducational television. One of Robert's last shows
22,000 children with them. They had fallen in love withbefore his retirement was a 5-part series on the
Canadian soldiers and were ready to start their newMi'kmaq First Nations People filmed in their native
life in Canada. The vast majority arrived in 1946, 60language. What a Canadian success story!
years ago, and made their first connection with theirObviously this man at almost 90 years of age is able
new homeland right here in Halifax, at Pier 21. Manyto look back on a long and interesting life of which he
then took a train from here to start their new lives inhas spent 52 years in Canada. I asked Robert what
other parts of the country.he thought about Canada and his face lit up with a
I learned that to commemorate the 60 yearhuge smile: "I love this country!"
anniversary, Via Rail came up with a special event inRobert has been honoured as the "Maritimer of the
celebration of this occasion: the 2006 War Bride TrainWeek" and he smiles when he says that his
which is scheduled to bring hundreds of Canadian Wargranddaughter nominated him. He loves volunteering
Brides back to Pier 21 where their lives in Canadafor Pier 21 and has been doing it for almost five years
began. On November 6 the train will depart in Montrealnow.
and arrive on November 7 in Halifax where there willAlthough my visit at Pier 21 was cut short because of
be great opportunities for celebration and reminiscingmy tight schedule (I still needed to see Dartmouth on
for hundreds of War Brides. Stefani commented thatmy last afternoon in Nova Scotia), I was touched by all
Pier 21 is linked to so many moving human stories thatthe human stories of Pier 21, represented first and
sometimes it is hard to keep a dry eye.foremost by the living testimonial of Robert Vandekieft,
We started our tour at the Research Centrewho, like thousands of others, turned his arrival at Pier
downstairs which has a collection of photographs of21 into the first step of a long and successful life in
over 90% of the ships that transported immigrants toCanada.
Halifax from 1928 to 1971. Images and newspaper