Hello from Montreal - One Final Walk Through Downtown, Admiring Its Architectural Beauties

My exciting long weekend in Montreal unfortunatelyStation - one of Montreal's historic railway stations.
had to come to an end. After an exciting day ofCornelius Van Horne, the famous chairman of
exploration yesterday that ended with an absolutelyCanadian Pacific, asked well-known architect Bruce
delicious dinner at Nuances, the fine dining restaurant atPrice to draw up plans for a modern railway station in
the Casino de Montreal, capped by an impressive1887 to serve Canada's transcontinental railroad. Price
pyro-musical performance at La Ronde, I rested up sohad already gained lots of experience from
I would be able to squeeze in a few more hours ofconstructing skyscrapers in Manhattan, he had also
discovery this morning. One more exploration of thebuilt the Chateau Frontenac in Quebec City, the Banff
city before I would have to had back to Toronto onSprings Hotel and other chateau-style buildings across
the train before noon.Canada and was the prime candidate to build this
With all my suitcases duly packed I went off for oneproject. The railway station opened in 1889 and was
more urban adventure. Fortunately checkout wasn'tenlarged in 1916 with a 15-story main tower. Windsor
until noon, so I was able to leave my luggage at theStation, built in a solid Richardson Romanesque revival
hotel and just head off with my camera and mystyle, witnessed a big expansion in rail travel in the
backpack. I started walking west on Rue De Laearly 20th century. In 1979 Windsor Station was
Gauchetière Ouest which starts off as a fairlyabandoned in favour of Montreal's Gare Centrale for
small street surrounded by five or six story high oldertranscontinental passenger traffic, but continued to
buildings. The first major sight I came across was St.house local commuter trains until 1993. Today it holds a
Patrick's Basilica.hotel, a variety of stores and offices and the beautifully
This gothic revival building, a designated Canadianpreserved central concourse still features the original
heritage site, is one of the most magnificent examplesarrivals and departure board and is used as a venue
of this style in all of Canada. The massive arrival offor major events. A major beer festival is also held at
Irish immigrants in the early 1800s created the need forthe Station annually. In recognition of its historic and
more houses of worship and construction of St.architectural significance Windsor Station was named
Patrick's was started in 1843 with the first mass beingthe first heritage train station in Canada in 1990.
celebrated in 1847. The interior of this church featuresAfter my explorations on Dorchester Square I strolled
150 oil paintings of saints and is known for the "St.to the north-east end of this grand public space to
Patrick's Chimes", a chime system composed of tenenter one of Montreal's most popular streets: Rue
bells, the oldest of which dates back to 1774.St-Catharines. This street stretches for a length of 15
I continued west past increasingly modern buildings untilkm and is Montreal's main commercial artery. Hundreds
I happened across a major urban square: Dorchesterof stores and fashion retailers are located along this
Square, formerly known as Dominion Square. Thisbusy street and it also is the main location of the
wide open public space is a former cemetery whichMontreal Jazz Festival. Since the 1960s several
held the victims of the 1832 cholera epidemic. Today itshopping centres have sprouted up and replaced
holds several statues, including a monumentsome of the older townhouses that used to flank this
commemorating the victims of the Boers War, ahistorical thoroughfare. Montreal's Eaton Centre is the
statue of Robert Burns - a Scottish poet, and anothermost recent addition to the shopping centres on St.
statue of Sir Wilfried Laurier, a former Canadian primeCatharines.
minister.This street also features a wealth of historic buildings
The south side of the square is called Place duincluding Christ Church Cathedral. This impressive
Canada, which is the setting for the annualNeo-Gothic church was built in 1858 and consecrated
Remembrance Day ceremony which honoursin 1867 in the growing Gold Square Mile area. The
Canadians that were killed in the First and Secondarchitect Frank Mills used the cathedral of Salisbury, his
World Wars as well as the Korean War. Dorchesterhome town, as a model for this building. The church
Square is surrounded by several magnificent buildings.features a beautiful stained glass window and
The north end holds the Dominion Square Buildingsurprisingly, the church itself rests on the roofs of an
which is also the location of the Centre Infotouriste,underground mall. Prior to the construction of the mall,
Montreal Tourism's headquarters.the church was actually sinking into the soft ground.
The east side of Dorchester Square is adorned byIndeed the original steeple had to be removed in 1927
one of Montreal's most astounding buildings: Marydue to its heavy weight and a much lighter steeple
Queen of the World Cathedral. This impressive churchmade of aluminum was constructed in 1940. Today the
is one of two surviving local churches from the eraunderground shopping centre, whose 1987 excavation
before 1875. It illustrates the power that the churchrequired the church to be supported by concrete
wielded before the Quiet Revolution of the 1960s. Onebeams in mid-air, provides adequate structural support
of Montreal's catholic bishops, Ignace Bourget, devisedfor the church. The 34-story office tower behind the
a grandiose plan to outshine the Notre Dame Basilica.church is topped by a crown of thorns and makes for
He decided to commission a church that would be aa popular photo motif.
replica of Rome's St. Peter's Cathedral with a locationI continued to walk east on St. Catherines and
right in the middle of a Protestant neighbourhood.happened upon Phillips Square, a beautiful urban space
Construction lasted from 1870 to 1894 and the copperwhere the retail trade began in Montreal. Rue St.
statues of thirteen patron saints of Montreal's parishesCatharines had formerly been a purely residential area.
were installed in 1900. The church underwentHenry Morgan, a Scottish immigrant with excellent
extensive modernization in the 1950s. In recent yearsconnections in the dry goods retail trade in Glasgow,
there has been significant reconstruction and thehad moved a retail store to a new location at St.
statue of Bishop Ignace Bourget outside the cathedralCatharines and Phillips Square after the old city ,
was restored in 2005. Mary Queen of the World waslocation of most of the retailers warehouses, had
named a National Historic Site of Canada on May 14,suffered a devastating flood in 1886. This store, built in
2006.the solid Richardson Romanesque style, later became
Further north on Place du Canada is the Sun Life"The Bay", for the "Hudson's Bay Company", which is
Building which was finished in 1931 after three stagesa chain of about 100 fashion department stores
of construction. It was built exclusively for the Sun Lifeoperating throughout Canada whose origins date back
Assurance Company and measures 122 meters into the fur traders of the 1600s. The centre of Phillips
height and counts 24 stories. Although the new headSquare is home to a monument of King Edward VII,
office of the Royal Bank of Canada at 360 Saintand a Birks jewellery store, located in an attractive
Jacques Street in Montreal was taller by several floors,sandstone building, flanks the square on the west side.
the Sun Life Building was at the time the largest buildingIt was getting close to departure time so I speeded up
in terms of square footage anywhere in the Britishmy walk back to the hotel. There was one more
Empire. The Sun Life Building has historic significance:major architectural attraction on my way: St. James
during World War II the basement vaults of the SunUnited Church. Completed in 1889, the present St.
Life Building were the secret hiding place of the CrownJames Church is the fourth home of the St. James
Jewels of England and the gold bullion of the Bank ofcongregation and due to its impressive size it used to
England. Today it stands as Montreal's 17th highestbe known as the Cathedral Church of Methodism. The
building.two towers anchored around a central large rose
On the West side of Place du Canada are alsowindow are reminiscent of great French Gothic
several historic buildings, starting with St. George'scathedrals. As a matter of fact, St. James United
Anglican Church, a Gothic Revival-style church, whichChurch was hidden by commercial storefronts from
was opened for worship in October of 1870. Its main1926 onwards in order to raise revenue. The church
features include the magnificent double hammer-beamremained concealed for more than 78 years and after
roof, one of the largest of its type in the world. Thethe demolition of the commercial buildings it was finally
unique column-free interior combines elements of bothuncovered again in 2005 and is currently undergoing
English and French Gothic plans, and the churchsome exterior renovations.
features magnificent wood carvings in the chancel.On my way back to the hotel I thought what amazing
The original bells of the church had to be sent out to aarchitectural wealth and beauty Montreal has to offer.
country church since the sound of the 13 bells wasFrom Old Montreal and the Old Port, first and foremost
considered too loud for a city church. A new set of 10led by Notre-Dame Basilica, to its stunning Second
bells of a lower tone was installed in 1901 and the newEmpire City Hall area to the historic centres of
sound was deemed to be beautiful. The originalcommerce on Rue St-Jacques or St. James Street to
architect considered to include a clock in the clockthe magnificent public and religious buildings that can be
tower but was concerned about a clock spoiling theseen all over the downtown core, Montreal dazzles
appearance. In addition, with the church facing Windsorwith its architectural heritage.
Station, the architect was afraid of the wrath ofAny architecture and history buff can't help but love
railway passengers in the event that the clock wasthis city and I realized that three and a half days in this
going to be inaccurate. Nevertheless, the clock wascity are barely enough to scratch the surface. As I
installed, only losing 6 seconds a year. A public clocksettled into my comfortable seat in the Via Rail coach
was extremely important to people at the time sinceback to Toronto I concluded that this trip was just an
wrist watches had not been invented yet and pocketintroduction, a mere overview, a brief taste of a
watches were difficult to access under thick winterdiverse, multi-faceted city, with so many more places
apparel.to explore in detail next time I come back.
Right across the Street from St. George's is Windsor